陈 功^1，2*，唐 垚²，赵 平³，范智义¹，贺云川³，张其圣^1，2*，罗远莉⁴，汪冬冬²，邓维琴¹，范永红⁴，明建英²，陈 蓉⁵，游敬刚¹，李洁芝¹

（1.四川省食品发酵工业研究设计院有限公司，四川成都 611130；

2.四川东坡中国泡菜产业技术研究院，四川眉山 620030；

3.重庆市涪陵榨菜集团股份有限公司，重庆涪陵 408003；

4.重庆市渝东南农业科学院，重庆涪陵 408004；

5.四川依柳源技术检测有限公司，四川成都 611130）

摘要：泡菜榨菜是我国传统酱腌菜的典型代表，历史悠久，风味独特，堪称国粹。二十多年来在科技的支撑下泡菜榨菜产业迅速发展，但消费者对泡菜榨菜中亚硝酸盐的担忧与误解一定程度上影响了产业发展。为此，本文系统分析了市售泡菜榨菜的亚硝酸盐含量，研究了亚硝酸盐的形成影响因素和代谢转化机制。对接泡菜科研团队的长期研究结果及现有的相关资料，可以获知：大部分市售泡菜榨菜的亚硝酸盐含量不超过5.0 mg/kg，远低于国标对其亚硝酸盐的限量（20 mg/kg），日人均摄入市售泡菜榨菜的亚硝酸盐剂量分别约为0.002 3-0.004 9 mg/kg体重·d和0.002 5-0.005 3 mg/kg体重·d（以亚硝根离子计），因此日常摄入泡菜榨菜是安全的。原料、食盐含量、温度和pH对泡菜榨菜中的亚硝酸盐含量具有明显影响，通过接种乳酸菌、添加抗氧化物质，可显著降低泡菜榨菜中亚硝酸盐的含量。阴沟肠杆菌、产酸克雷伯菌、弗氏柠檬酸杆菌等是泡菜榨菜中产生亚硝酸盐的主要潜在有害微生物，而乳酸菌可抑制有害微生物的生长，从而降低泡菜亚硝酸盐含量。本文通过泡菜榨菜中亚硝酸盐的代谢研究，创立了泡菜榨菜亚硝酸盐的N₂-NH₄^＋（氮-氨）转化学说，即泡菜榨菜中的亚硝酸盐主要通过反硝化、同化与异化硝酸盐还原生成，随后经反硝化途径被还原为N₂（氮气），或经硝酸盐还原途径被还原为NH₄^＋（氨），这些生化反应过程导致泡菜榨菜发酵初期亚硝酸盐含量升高较快，随后逐渐降低。同时，再次从理论上阐明泡菜榨菜是以有益微生物乳酸菌主导发酵而成的蔬菜制品，所以无论是家庭或工厂制作的泡菜榨菜，均应做到制作过程的清洁干净，避免有害微生物繁殖。该学说解析了泡菜榨菜制作中亚硝酸盐的转化途径，有助于消除消费者对泡菜榨菜的安全担忧和历史性的误解，为科学的泡菜榨菜制作加工储藏和品质的提升提供了极其重要理论的参考。

关键词：泡菜；榨菜；亚硝酸盐；安全；转化；代谢；学说

中图分类号：TS255.54   文献标识码：A   文章编号：1674-506X（2021）02-0001-0013

Study on Nitrite Content and Its N₂-NH₄^＋ Transforming Theory in Paocai and Zhacai

CHEN Gong^1，2*, TANG Yao², ZHAO Pin³, FAN Zhi-yi¹, HE Yun-chuan³, ZHANG Qi-sheng^1，2*, LUO Yuan-li⁴, WANG Dong-dong², DENG Wei-qin¹, FAN Yong-hong⁴, MING Jian-ying², CHEN Rong⁵, YOU Jing-gang¹, LI Jie-zhi¹

（1.Sichuan Food and Fermentation Industry Research & Design Institute Co., Ltd., Chengdu Sichuan 611130, China;

2.Sichuan Dongpo Chinese Paocai Industrial Technology Research Institute, Meishan Sichuan 620030, China;

3.Chongqing Fulin Zhacai Ltd., Co., Fulin Chongqing 408003, China;

4.Chongqing Yudongnan Academy of Agricultural Science, Fulin Chongqing 408004, China;

5.Sichuan Yiliuyuan Technological Testing Ltd., Co., Chengdu Sichuan 611130, China）

Abstract：Paocai and zhacai are the elites of Chinese cuisine culture. They are the representatives of Chinese traditional pickled vegetables known for their long history backgrounds and unique quality characteristics. In recent twenty years, paocai and zhacai industry developed quickly due to the support of science and technology. However, the safety of paocai and zhacai are usually questioned by some consumers because nitrite will produce during the production. Therefore, to unravel the contamination level, safety, dynamics and metabolizing of nitrite in zhacai and paocai, nitrite contents of commercial zhacai and paocai, factors influencing the nitrite contents and pathways of nitrite metabolism were systematically reviewed in this paper. From the results of continuing study of our research team, combining with the previous studies in the field, it is known that nitrite content was lower than 5.0 mg/kg in most of the commercial paocai and zhacai, which is much lower than the limited content (20 mg/kg) stipulated by the National Standard. Daily contents of nitrite entering the human body by intake of commercial paocai and zhacai are only 0.002 3-0.004 9mg/kg bw · d and 0.002 5-0.005 3mg/kg bw · d, respectively. Consumption of paocai and zhacai is seen as safe. Ingredient, salt concentration, temperature and pH influence the nitrite content of paocai significantly. By LAB inoculation and antioxidant addition, content of nitrite in paocai and zhacai can be significantly lowered. Enterobacter cloacae, Klebsiella oxytoca and Citrobacter freundii are the main potential harmful microbes that produce nitrite in paocai and zhacai. Also, by study the metabolism of nitrite in paocai and zhacai, N₂-NH₄^＋ transforming theory was introduced in this paper. Nitrite in paocai and zhacai is formed through denitrification, assimilation and dissimilation nitrate reduction and is transferred into nitrogen (N₂) by denitrification and ammonia (NH₄^＋) by nitrate reduction. These metabolic pathways lead to the significant rise of nitrite content followed by decreasing during the fermentation of nitrite paocai and zhacai. Meanwhile, it is theoretically confirmed that paocai and zhacai are the vegetable product predominantly fermented by lactic acid bacteria. Hygiene environment should be guaranteed in the process of fermented vegetable for both industrial and traditional production to avoid the contamination of harmful bacteria. The N₂-NH₄^＋ transforming theory clarified the transforming pathway of nitrite in paocai and zhacai production. It helps eliminated the misunderstanding of consumers on nitrite and provide extremely useful information on the scientific production and quality improvement of paocai and zhacai.

Keywords：paocai; zhacai; nitrite; safety; transforming; metabolism; theory

doi：10.3969/j.issn.1674-506X.2021.02-001

收稿日期：2021-03-19

基金项目：国家“十三五”重点研发计划项目（2016YFD0400505）；四川省“十三五”产业链示范项目（2016NZ0007）；四川省“十二五”科技支撑项目（2009NZ0080）；企业委托研究项目（2019）

作者简介：陈功（1964-），男，正高，泡菜研究首席专家、农产品食品研究首席专家。

*通信作者

引文格式：陈功,唐垚,赵平,等.泡菜榨菜亚硝酸盐含量及其N₂-NH₄⁺转化机理的研究[J].食品与发酵科技,2021,57(2):1-13.